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When buying a cream we check for its action and properties. But do many of us know what the ingredients of the cream are and why it possesses such properties as nourishment, moistening, protection?..


Any cream has a base to which other ingredients are added. The base consists of a mixture of water and oil in a certain proportion. Therefore, there are two types of bases - "water in oil" and "oil in water". It is difficult to define the type of the base in a cream by just looking at it, nevertheless, the following test can be made: put a bit of a cream into warm water. If the base of the cream is "oil in water" then the cream will not dissolve, and if the base is "water in oil" it will dissolve, especially if you shake up the cream container a bit.


Gel - imageOf course, to get a cream base, it is not enough to mix oil and water. To provide for its consistence special substances-emulsifiers are used. (Amphoteric-9, Carbomer, Cetearyl alcohol, Cholesterin, Emulsifying wax, Lanolin, Lanolin alcohol, Hydrogenated lanolin, Lecithin, Sorbitol ether, Stearic acid, Tannin stearate).


Active ingredients are supposed to take positive effect upon skin. But if on the label of a cream or any other preparation there is a big number of the so-called biologically active agents (five, six, ten.) - vegetable and animal extracts, tinctures etc. - be careful! First of all, many of the ingredients from this category do not go with each other without producing side effects. Secondly, the majority of them do not produce the desirable effect and if they do, they must be in much higher concentrations.

Filming agent (polysaccharide group), water retention agents (high-molecular elastin and collagen) and skin cells functioning conditioner (tissular cells extracts) are wonderful agents for creams that do produce good effect.


Vitamins are necessary to keep the whole body in good health. Yet multiple statements of researchers claiming that vitamins are good only if taken internally strike a warning note. It is also worth to mention that some vitamins can cause irritation of sensitive skin. Use of A and E vitamins (tocopherol or tocopherol-acetate) in moisturizers also causes doubts since their molecules are too big to penetrate into skin.

Vitamin A derivative. Researches allow to assume that vitamin A derivative - retinoic acid - can block ultraviolet impact upon skin and, therefore, premature aging.

Retinol is another derivative of vitamin A, which many of the manufacturers add to the moisturizers believing that on the skin surface retinol turns into retinoic acid, but in fact it does not happen.


These are the components that are added to creams to transport active agents into skin layers (liposomes, hydrosomes, noctosomes, sphingosomes), but their ability to penetrate into epidermis overcoming the barrier zone is very much doubted.


That's what the preservatives are called. Preservatives solve one of the most important problems - prevent products from going off. Preservatives can cause allergic reactions.

One positive effect of the preservatives is elimination of bacteria and fungi directly on skin. Without preservatives bacteria reproduce very quickly and, at the same time, break down the preparation. That is why we recommend you to be careful with preparations that say "do not contain preservatives". Most likely they use essential oils instead of preservatives in the so-called natural cosmetics. If the oil concentration is not high enough - the cream will go off very quickly. But if a cream contains enough oils for its safe preservation, make sure you test it against allergic reactions. If overdosed, essential oils can cause irritation.

Plazan anti-aging cream base imageOf course, the world of cosmetic creams is fascinating and diverse. We did not cover even the smallest part of it. But coming back to the very beginning of our story about cream bases, we would like to draw your attention to the following: whatever agents are added in to a cream, do not permanently use oily creams (the base is "oil in water"). These creams contain abundant oily agents exceeding skin needs in them. They absorb badly, "block" pores and skin breath, overheating it.
Even very dry skin needs, first of all, moisturizers but not oils. The same applies to aging skin that needs moisture most of all. Choose anti aging skin care products from the point of view of their impact upon your skin.

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